Interesting take. I've been climbing for 40+ years. Climbing walls (I'm a UKian) have definitely got much better, and there is definitely a huge community of gym only climbers, but I don't get the feeling that the better climbers and harder climbers are being pushed out of the walls.
My local wall (the very wonderful Frome Boulder Rooms) has problems that top out at about V8 or V9. But you know what, I haven't heard a single complaint that there are not enough hard problems. Most of the better boulderers there are working the V7s and V8s.
I'm intrigued by the claim that competition means that walls have less and less time to make a profit. To my mind, a good wall is like a good pub - it has both an offer and a culture that makes people come back. So good varied setting, and a good culture. Get those right and people will come back again and again.
My local wall (the very wonderful Frome Boulder Rooms) has problems that top out at about V8 or V9. But you know what, I haven't heard a single complaint that there are not enough hard problems. Most of the better boulderers there are working the V7s and V8s.
I'm intrigued by the claim that competition means that walls have less and less time to make a profit. To my mind, a good wall is like a good pub - it has both an offer and a culture that makes people come back. So good varied setting, and a good culture. Get those right and people will come back again and again.